Spring/Summer 2012
This is the second chapter of my Paris Fashion Week Favourites.
Martin Grant
Martin Grant's Spring collection produced a perfect balance of light and dark. Flashes of yellow, tangerine and electric blue were anchored by silky ebony gowns. The Australian designer steered clear from the popular floral prints of the season, sticking to monotoned duchess satin. Simple, unruffled shapes were a canvas for cut-outs and colour-blocking. A bright stripe of orange outlined the eyes.
Sonia Rykiel
Shades of sunshine were beamed across an optimistic yellow runway at Sonia Rykiel's Spring showing. The colour palette developed from vanilla, honey and lemon to glowing midday oranges. Both sporty and feminine shapes were represented. A unifying strip of black fabric was drawn across pleated dresses, culottes and skirts. The collection concluded with a gorgeous colour block gown and silk tulip-print dresses.
It was the poetic works of 19th century dramatists, Byron and Baudelaire that inspired Haider Ackermann's Spring collection. The silhouettes had a strong masculine theme; with slouchy pants, loose-fit blazers and robe-like jackets. Opulent fabrics like silk, jacquard and brocade were set in jewel tones and mismatched sari-like prints. It was great to see the models wear flat oxfords instead of heels.
Costume National's rose-tinted Spring range is as unpretentious as it is prepossessing. Composed and sophisticated outfits in charming shades of peppermint and pink went from work to cocktail wear. Italian designer Ennio Capasa focused on geometric tailoring, exaggerated cap sleeves and sheer panelling. A pretty, sensible and wearable collection.
John Galliano
Designer Bill Gaytten drew inspiration from two classic 'Marys' for John Galliano's Spring 2012 range. The Mary Poppins element can be seen in the boater hats, oversized tweed coats, corsages, flair skirts, Mary-Jane heels and carpet bags. 1920's actress Mary Pickford was the muse behind the saccharine organza dresses, swiveled in tulle. The collection leaped from bias-cut daywear to gauzy feminine evening gowns.
Andrew Gn
Singaporean designer Andrew Gn merged Japanese construction with 18th century French grandeur for next Spring. Kimono-style dresses featuring origami pleating were woven from lavish baroque brocades. Rococo bejeweled waistbands adorned floaty chiffon dresses. Models were crowned by floral tiara headbands - the ideal accessory for a royally beautiful range.
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